Raden: The Iridescent Beauty of Mother-of-Pearl Inlay - Core Kyoto
//Summary - Level-B2//
Raden is a traditional Japanese art form that utilises mother-of-pearl in lacquerware to create shimmering designs. Artists combine traditional techniques with modern tools, such as resin and 3D printers. One artist focuses on themes of light, water, and life; another values the beauty of daily-use items. Despite using new materials, they honour centuries-old methods. Some artworks even appear internationally. All aim to preserve and evolve Japanese craftsmanship by passing it to the next generation while expressing nature and spirit through their work.
1. What is Raden?
Raden is a traditional Japanese decorative technique that uses thin slices of mother-of-pearl inlaid into black lacquer. The material shines with different colours depending on the light and viewing angle, creating a mysterious and elegant effect.
Artist’s Quote:
“There’s almost no other material that can change its colours like this depending on the angle. That’s what makes it special.”
— A Raden artist explaining the beauty of the material (1:14)
2. Traditional Techniques and Spiritual Themes
One featured artist, who started by sketching nature, said he was deeply moved by moments of spiritual clarity. After attending Zen meditation sessions, he began to focus on themes such as light, water, and life.
Artist’s Quote:
“I wanted to express that light I saw in meditation. From then on, light, water, and life became my lifelong themes.”
— Male lacquer artist reflecting on his spiritual inspiration (4:01)
He was selected to exhibit at a prestigious art show at age 20 and continues to explore the life forms born in water through his Raden works.
3. Art Meets Practical Design
A female artist trained in Japanese painting was inspired when her drawings evolved into functional objects, such as tea containers. She found profound meaning in combining beauty and usefulness.
Her Quote:
“At first, I made a tray. Then I thought—if I make a tea container, someone might use it for 200 or 300 years.”
— Female Raden artist sharing her excitement about creating lasting art (13:28)
She values the Japanese concept of composition, which seeks to express the essence of objects, not just their outer beauty.
4. Combining Tradition with New Materials
Another artist utilises modern materials, such as artificial gemstones and resin, to expand Raden's visual potential. He embraces technology, such as 3D printing, for complex shapes, while still relying on centuries-old handcraft techniques.
His Quote:
“What I’m doing now may seem new, but in 200 years, it might be seen as tradition.”
— Resin and gemstone artist expressing his vision for future craftsmanship (20:02)
He values Kyoto’s long history of innovation, where even traditional techniques were once considered cutting-edge.
5. Passing on the Tradition
One artisan, whose father was also a craftsman, takes pride in continuing the legacy. He developed a loom that could weave kimono sashes (obi) one meter wide—wider than the traditional 33 cm—making it more suitable for international markets.
Narration about him:
“His textile was featured by a major fashion brand at Paris Fashion Week.” (26:48)
This innovation gained global recognition, helping to renew interest in traditional brocade weaving.
Family’s Comment:
“He didn’t show off, but what he did was truly great. That idea and execution are rare.”
— A relative praising the innovator's quiet achievement (27:03)
Raden: The Iridescent Beauty of Mother-of-Pearl Inlay - Core Kyoto
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCadqAhLa64&t=551s
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About Raden
https://www.galleryjapan.com/locale/en_US/technique/urushiwork/30305/
Description
Raden is a decorative technique that uses the iridescent inner layer of shells such as abalone, turban shells, and pearl oysters. This technique was introduced to Japan from China 1,300 years ago, and some of the relics in the Shosoin Repository in Nara are decorated with raden.
Raden is divided into two types based on the thickness of the shell. Thin shells (usugai, aogai) are less than 0.1 mm thick and are made by polishing the shell or boiling it to peel off the layers. There is also a technique called "ura-saishiki," in which materials such as gold and silver are applied to the underside of the shell to add colour and shine. Thick shells (atsugai) are flat shells polished to a thickness of about one millimetre. The unique beauty of mother-of-pearl work comes from the contrast between the jewel-like shine of the shells and the deep tones of the lacquer.
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Raden
https://www.mlit.go.jp/tagengo-db/en/R4-00031,html
Raden is a decorative technique in which small pearl shells are embedded in lacquer. The fact that this technique originated in China in the 8th century is supported by artefacts discovered in the Shosoin Treasures of Todaiji Temple in Nara. After that, raden became a commonly used technique for Japanese lacquerware, along with gold and silver maki-e. It was also used not only for small items and daily necessities, but also for large buildings, such as the luxurious ceiling decoration of the Phoenix Hall of Byodo-in Temple in the Kyoto area.
Mother-of-pearl is a pearl-like substance called nacre that forms inside the shells of molluscs. The colour and quality of the pearls vary depending on the type of shell, but abalone, butterfly shell, night oyster, and nautilus are often used for raden.
The next big step is to harvest the right nacre fragments. First, both sides of the shell are scraped with a whetstone or grinder to make the nacre surface relatively flat. The size of the shell and its natural curve will limit the number of large fragments that can be harvested. The thickness of the nacre you harvest will determine how it will be used, as nacre is fragile. The bottom one is called "thin shell." In the past, thin shells were made by peeling off the lighter layer of nacre for 3 to 7 days. Nowadays, mechanical grinders are used, so the shells are boiled in water to prevent friction (otherwise, the heat would damage the shells during the long grinding process). Thick shells, thin shells, and other small pieces of nacre, when crushed, can be used to create an iridescent powder called "minjin shell, "which can also be incorporated into designs.
Once enough nacre is secured, the next step is to cut out the shape. Depending on the thickness of the piece, this can be done with a jigsaw, precision knife, punch template, or acid etching. In addition, the shells may be decorated with fine line engravings, paintings, or by applying gold leaf to the underside of translucent thin shells.
The cut shells are then placed into the lacquerware and attached to its surface. Lacquer is applied over them, and the shells are polished.
The Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art boasts a vast collection of screw lacquerware, spanning from the 15th century to the present day. Among them are one National Important Cultural Property and many Ishikawa Prefecture Important Cultural Properties.
Raden
Raden is a decorative technique in which small pieces of mother-of-pearl are embedded in lacquer. It was introduced from China in the 8th century, as evidenced by artefacts found in the treasure house of the Shosoin Repository at Todaiji Temple in Nara. Raden later became a common technique in Japanese lacquerware and was often used in conjunction with gold and silver maki-e decoration. It was used in small everyday items and household items, as well as in grand architecture, such as the ornate ceiling decoration of the Phoenix Hall of Byodo-in Temple near Kyoto.
"Mother of pearl" refers to the pearl-like substance called nacre that accumulates inside the shells of certain molluscs. Different types of shells exhibit varying colours and qualities of nacre; however, the most commonly used shells for lacquerware include abalone, pearl oysters, turban shells, and nautilus. Each shell has a different outline and iridescent pattern, so finding a shell that matches the design you have in mind is the first challenge for a lacquer craftsman.
The second major hurdle is harvesting the right pearl oyster pieces. First, both sides of the shell are polished with a whetstone or grinder to create a flat nacre with a relatively uniform surface. The size and natural curve of the shell limit the number of large pieces that can be harvested. Because nacre is fragile, the thickness of the piece determines its use. Pieces between 0.1 and 2 millimeters thick are called "thick shells" and pieces less than that are called "thin shells." In the past, thin shells were made by boiling shells for 3 to 7 days and peeling off a thin layer. Nowadays, as mechanical grinders are used, the shells are cooled in water to prevent friction buildup (otherwise, the heat would damage the shell during the long grinding process needed to create such a thin layer). In addition to thick and thin shells, small flakes of nacre can be ground into an iridescent powder called "mijingai" (shell grains), which can also be used in designs.
Once enough nacre shells are available, they are cut into the desired shapes. Depending on the thickness of the shell, this can be accomplished using a fret saw, precision knife, die-cutting templates, acid etching, or other methods. Shells can also be further decorated with hairline engraving, painting, or by applying gold leaf to the back of the translucent thin shell.
The cut strips are then inlaid into the lacquerware or glued onto the surface. The pattern is then covered with a protective layer of lacquer and polished to a smooth finish. Maki-e, a decorative technique for lacquerware, is often used in conjunction with raden, adding metallic silver and gold sheen to the iridescent whites, pinks and blues of raden.
The Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art boasts an extensive collection of fine raden works, spanning from the 15th century to modern times, including one nationally significant cultural property and several critical cultural properties of Ishikawa Prefecture.
Raden work was designated an Important Intangible Cultural Heritage in 1999.
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What is Raden? Introducing a traditional decoration method with a mysterious glow.
https://www.yamada-heiando.jp/c/column/what-is-raden
Raden is a decorative method for lacquerware, kimonos, and other items that utilises the mother-of-pearl layer of shells.
"Ra" means a conch shell, and "den" means decoration with shells and jewels.
Raden uses the sparkling parts of shells, such as luminous shells and abalone, and attracts many people because it changes its appearance beautifully depending on the angle and direction of viewing.
